A guide to different types of stiches in chikankari

A Guide to Different Types of Stitches in Chikankari

Chikankari, a delicate and intricate form of hand-embroidery, is one of the most iconic and beloved craft traditions of India, especially associated with the city of Lucknow. This art form, which has been passed down through generations, involves various stitches that create beautiful and complex patterns on fabrics like cotton, modal, and muslin. The techniques and stitches in Chikankari are what make it stand out, and understanding them is key to appreciating the craftsmanship behind this timeless tradition.
In this blog, we will take a deep dive into the various stitches used in Chikankari, explaining each one in a simple and digestible manner.

1. Phanda (French Knot)

One of the most widely recognized and popular stitches in Chikankari is the Phanda or French knot. This stitch adds texture and dimension to the fabric, making it stand out.

  • How it’s done: The Phanda stitch is created by wrapping the thread around the needle multiple times, and then inserting the needle back into the fabric. The thread forms a knot-like structure, giving it a raised appearance.
  • Uses: It’s commonly used to create floral designs, particularly for the centers of flowers in Chikankari motifs.

2. Bakhia (Shadow Work)


Bakhia is another fundamental stitch in Chikankari, known for its subtle, shadowy effect on the fabric. This stitch is typically used in combination with other stitches to create intricate patterns.

  • How it’s done: The Bakhia stitch is a type of satin stitch where the thread is laid flat on the fabric to cover large areas. The result is a smooth, even coverage that creates a shadow-like effect.
  • Uses: It’s often used to fill in spaces around floral patterns or along the edges of Chikankari designs.

3. Murri (Rice Grain)


The Murri stitch is named after the small grain of rice because of its shape. It is a relatively simple, yet highly effective stitch that adds texture and depth to Chikankari pieces.

  • How it’s done: The stitch is made by creating small, rice-shaped motifs with a series of short and quick stitches. These are typically done in rows to form a pattern.
  • Uses: Murri is typically used to create a textured pattern that resembles a field of rice or tiny seeds. It's commonly used for filling empty spaces and can add an elegant touch to a design.

4. Phool (Flower Stitch)

 

As the name suggests, Phool refers to the floral motifs created with this particular stitch. This stitch is often used to form the petals of flowers or the general structure of a flower in the embroidery.

  • How it’s done: The Phool stitch is done in a petal-like fashion, with multiple stitches forming the outline and shape of the flower. Each petal or part of the flower is worked separately.
  • Uses: Phool is widely used to create large, ornate floral designs in Chikankari work. It can be seen in kurtas, dupattas, and even tops.

5. Jaali (Netting)


Jaali is one of the most visually striking Chikankari stitches and is often used to create net-like patterns. It is particularly popular in heavier fabrics and those intended for evening wear.

  • How it’s done: Jaali is created by working small running stitches along a grid to form a net pattern. The net-like effect is enhanced by adding threads over the running stitches to make the pattern more intricate.
  • Uses: It’s typically used in Chikankari work to create lattice patterns or to fill in the background of larger designs.

7. Hool (Straight Stitch)


The Hool stitch is one of the most basic yet essential stitches in Chikankari. It forms the backbone of many designs and is used in various types of embroidery, from floral motifs to geometric patterns.

  • How it’s done: The Hool stitch is made by simply running the thread through the fabric in a straight line, forming a simple, clean stitch. It can be done in different lengths depending on the design.
  • Uses: Hool stitches are used for outlining designs or filling in sections of a pattern. It’s often seen in combination with other stitches to add a clean, defined edge to motifs.

    Conclusion

    Chikankari, with its variety of stitches, has endured through centuries because of its versatility and timeless beauty. Each stitch brings its own texture, depth, and charm to the fabric, whether it is the intricate Phool or the delicate Bakhia. Mastery of these stitches requires time, patience, and skill, making Chikankari not just an art form, but also a testimony to the dedication of the artisans.
    Whether you're looking to appreciate the craft or are interested in learning it, understanding these stitches is the first step in delving into the world of Chikankari. It’s a tradition that transcends time, and each piece tells a unique story of cultural heritage, creativity, and craftsmanship.

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